Comfort by the Cup
The seasons are changing at full throttle now. Where a few short weeks ago there were green leaves, mild breezes and endless daylight, now there are rapidly-baring branches, icy winds and encroaching darkness. Everywhere I go I have to remember my rain protection and high-collared coat, and every night I come home craving big plates of hearty, calorie-rich food. Although you'd think this should be enough to convince me that we're spinning headlong into winter, in reality my seasonal clock is much more specific than that. While other people flip the calendar, break out the long johns and park the ice-scraper in the car, I wait for my one failsafe sign that cold weather has arrived for good. For me all the woolen mittens and frozen noses in the world signal the time of year less than a sudden, unignorable, bottom-of-the-belly craving for hot chocolate.
I have always been a sucker for hot chocolate, though as I grow older I find that for all its apparent simplicity, a really good cup can be hard to find. When I was a kid I drank Swiss Miss by the gallon and loved every tooth-aching drop, but as an adult I find powdered mixes just not up to scratch. I've also had limited success just combining good chocolate and milk. You certainly can, but it never turns out quite right - too little chocolate and the flavor is frustratingly subtle; too much and it's just too rich to drink, an afternoon pick-me-up inadvertently becoming an early dinner. And then there's the consistency. If you've ever been to Spain, you've probably tried hot chocolate there, which comes as thick as mud and is nearly always eaten like soup. As delicious as that is, if it's not sippable it's still not my quintessential cup.
What makes the perfect cup, then? Well, it should carry a heavy hit of chocolate, preferably from both a high-quality bar and a good measure of cocoa for depth. It should be smooth, rich, and silky without the slightest bit of powdery grit. There should be just enough sweetness to take the edge off the bitter chocolate, but not nearly enough to be cloying. There should be a deep milky, creamy flavor without overpowering richness. It also should be quick to whip up, because hot chocolate is meant to satisfy spur-of-the-moment chocolate cravings. This recipe just might have it all. Its basis is a recipe in the highly acclaimed and encyclopedic Secrets of Baking by James Beard award-winner Sherry Yard. What tempted me first was the technique - she builds the recipe around a ganache, which is a brilliantly simple way to assure a complete emulsification and a velvety-smooth texture. Another point in its favor comes from the recipe making a large batch - perfect for storing in the fridge and reheating as the cravings strike. The other great thing about this recipe is that there are customizable elements - if you want it thicker and richer, omit the water and substitute cream for part of the milk. If you want it lighter, you can even dilute it more. The amount of sugar is also up to you - add a few tablespoons when you make it, or let yourself and your guests add it to taste to each steaming, luscious cup.
Is this the perfect hot chocolate? You'll have to be the judge of that. All I can tell you is that for the moment I'm not in a hurry for the warm weather to return.
Perfect Hot Chocolate
Yield: 6 cups of hot chocolate
7oz (200g) bittersweet chocolate
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup evaporated milk
2 1/2 cups whole milk (or 2 cups milk and 1/2 cup additional cream)
1 1/2 cups water (optional)
1/4 cup cocoa powder
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
sugar, to taste
freshly whipped cream, to garnish
To make the ganache, chop the chocolate into small pieces and place in a heatproof bowl. Bring the cream and evaporated milk to a boil in a saucepan over medium heat. Immediately pour the boiling liquid over the chopped chocolate, then let it sit undisturbed for 1 minute. Stir slowly until everything is smooth and blended.
Bring the whole milk and optional water to a boil over medium heat. Add the cocoa powder and whisk until dissolved. Remove from the heat and stir in the ganache. Let sit for 1 minute, then stir until well combined and velvety smooth. Stir in the vanilla, sweeten with sugar to taste and serve hot, garnished with a spoonful of lightly-sweetened whipped cream.
Tuesday, October 18, 2005
Reader Comments (39)
beautiful lighting
I don;t mind some nice dutch processed (it melts in water) with a dash of milk either :)
And I love the idea of keeping it in the fridge. I'd like to keep a batch in my little fridge at work.
Paz
Reading a piece like this almost makes me wish I were a chocolate lover.
It was delicious.
And your picture is so so awesome.
Love
Fanny
I don't drink hot chocolate too often, but this makes me want a cup NOW (and it's 1 am here!). *sigh* I can just imagine the flavor and aroma....
I am not a chocolate-lover at all, but this made me think twice.
I love to drink home-made chocolate around the year - cold during hot days and hot during the cold seasons... Wonderful picture, makes me feel cozy ;)
If you order hot chocolate anywhere in Munich, you typically get the ready-made mixes, nothing special. But we have this one place (Bar Centrale): the first time I thought they accidentally brought me some dessert instead of the Hot Chocolate, because it was almost as thick as custard... It's really delicious, but you have to be in the mood for heavy duty, it is so rich...
Hi Christine - Hopefully this will fit the bill! Just don't be afraid to adjust the various elements to taste - that's what I love about this recipe.
Hi Clare - I too would never say no to any form of chocolate beverage, but sometimes it's nice to go a little over the top, wouldn't you agree?
Molly dear, we are two of a kind. I firmly believe there should be as little effort standing between one and one's daily fix of chocolate as possible!
David, thank you. But your question is better left unasked - do we really want to know the answer..?
Hi Sheri - I've been tempted to take a batch into work with me as well. The only thing that stops me is the thought that I may have to share... ;)
Hi Paz - I'm sure the temperature will be dropping soon enough. And when it does, you know what to make!
Hi Kevin - You know, it's never too late... :)
Hi Fanny - We seem to share a mind recently! I'm glad I was able to help satisfy your hot chocolate cravings too - I wonder what we'll both think of next?
Hi Tara - Thank you! I love the idea of steeping spices in the hot chocolate, I think that's the next step in the evolution of this recipe. By the way, I'm on the edge of my seat for that arborio rice pudding recipe!
Hi Chefdoc - Thank you!!
Michele, believe me, there are worse kinds of freaks to be! And enjoy the warm weather while you've got it - soon enough, you'll be freezing with the rest of us, and there'll be plenty of cups of hot chocolate waiting to be inhaled!
Hi Reid - I have to admit, as much as I imagine I would love to live in Hawaii, it would be a bit frustrating never having hot chocolate-drinking weather! Hmm, but I suppose there's nothing saying you have to drink this hot - there's iced coffee, so why not iced chocolate?
Shauna, you obviously know the craving well. A need for chocolate coupled with a need for something hot, filling and soothing - there's nothing better, whether the rain outside is Scottish or Northwestern!
Hi J - I just got the Sherry Yard book, and it fabulous. Definitely one of the best dessert books out there. I'll have to try P.H.'s hot chocolate as well - you didn't think I just got one new book, did you? ;) And surprising how a childhood predilection for swiss miss seems to turn out fine-chocolate fanatics! Makes me wonder what will happen to our kids if we raise them on hot chocolate like this...
Hi tscd - If they're chocolate lovers, it certainly will! Just make sure they're not on a diet first ;)
Hi Fethiye - Thank you! Maybe it is time to think twice - there's a lot of chocolate lovers (addicts?) around here who I'm sure would be happy to convince you how green the grass is on this side...!
Hi Nicky - That hot chocolate sounds lovely, though I know what you mean about heavy duty! Luckily it gets cold enough in Germany to really justify the heavy duty stuff - that was one of the only consolations I had to get me through the long icy winters there. And welcome back, by the way, your trip looks like it was amazing!
what a lovely post on hot chocolate! I remember cravings for hot chocolate during winter at University....anytime of the day, it's my quick sugar fix! Beautiful picture as well!
Hi Skrat - Thanks! I guess you don't really get hot chocolate weather in Singapore too often! Where did you go to University?
Hi Fethiye - I'm so happy you liked it! Once you see the chocolate light, there's no going back... :)
I didn't bring any huitlacoche from Mexico, but if you fancy couple of disks of Mexican hot chocolate (Ibarra brand), then I'm happy to give you some - I brought 3x540 grams:)
However, This recipe might just be an emergency relief of the winter blues. That and the lentil soup I made yesterday. mmmm...
I would like to know how many milliliters a cup is over there... here it's 250 ml, just to make sure I get the chocolate/milk ratio right :)
rich, deep, strong...
Most exquisite with just a dash of creme fraiche, and a sprinkle of cayenne powder on top.
by the way, I recieved half a package of chilli-flavored bittersweet chocolate, that comes in a red foil package and the paper wrapping around the foil is orange and shows a chilli pepper on it. The pepper really comes through and compliments the cocoa flavor, and the heat kicks the sweetnes up the arse. have you tried it?
I'm thinking of adding a couple of cubes to the next batch.
:)
I'm late to the party, but that is a beautiful photo! I love eating chocolate--especially dark chocolate. Never really thought to make my own hot chocolate though, nice post! Winter's coming I'l be sure to try this.